#perfumy

Kto chce wiedzieć, jak Carbonnel tworzy "perfumy"?

Będzie długo, ale warto:

"There is no doubt why you would smell Head and Shoulders in Erba Pura… And here’s why…

Carbonnel is actually a company that has existed since the 1920s and today it is one of the largest manufacturers of Fragrance related products and one of the leading companies in fragrance technology. Christian Carbonnel is the third generation son to take over after second generation Francisco Carbonnel. The family rather remain in one location for quality control purposes so the HQ and the laboratory is all located in Spain. Carbonnel produces fragrances for household products, personal-care and hygiene products and then also creates mainly niche fragrances. My research has not awarded me results for if Carbonnel is the fragrance manufacturer for Head and Shoulders products but scent profiles you can find in Head and Shoulder like Wild Strawberry, Dewy Melon, Jasmine blossoms, Green apple are present notes in many Xerjoffs and Christian Carbonnel creations so it wouldn’t hurt to be a little skeptical. 

“About the Robots”

Quote from the Carbonnel website “This application has the advantage of combining modules that work on a milligram scale with other modules that produce a large quantity of mixture. We produce fast and controlled. We design an advanced technology and system of production which is composed of 400 drums of 25 Kg, 200 drums of 200 Kg and 25 drums with temperature control. Each of those drums contains different raw materials connected by pipes through a production desk in order to help our workers during the production of our goods. This system helps us to economize time as all the raw materials are stocked in front of our worker’s area. Such system gives also more security in our production process.” Carbonnel has mentioned in an interview where he talks about the installment of a new mixing robot “It's a new Roxane, and it's going to be my toy. It can blend 100 ingredients very accurately and efficiently. That is going to help me speed up my projects.” The name of the mixing robot is the Roxanne Filling Robot. 

The Roxanne Filling Robot takes a large portion of time off of the the process of creating a perfume and then the Carbonnel team of 17 perfumers mainly women are generally instrumental in providing either the top notes or middle notes to then be approved by Christian or dad, Francisco Carbonnel. Chris Carbonnel barely ever makes a perfume from scratch and he admits to sometimes having 20-30+ fragrances in the process of creation yearly. He uses his crew of mainly female perfumers as a focus group so that the fragrances are guaranteed mass-appealing and commercially successful. And after all this the females rarely if ever receive recognition as the perfumers especially when they were the creators of the "Oud Stars" collection at Xerjoff. The art, love, hard work of fragrance creation and practices of perfumery are completely lost by these standards. It is commercialized and cold. So in summary a Robot named “Roxanne” used to make scents for commercial hygiene and cleaning products is also specialized like a calculator to make a mass appealing fragrance base that then has top and middle notes quickly added by humans, like icing on a factory made cake, and then approved by Christian or a team of scientists. These niche products and many of the Middle Eastern fragrances the Company Carbonnel had a hand in making sound more like the processes of manufacturing a designer fragrance. And then they slap on a hefty premium price tag to make them seem like they are luxury products made with love. Where is the Love…? 

As far as my research goes the Carbonnel company in Spain is one of only two factories that uses a mixing AI to create perfumes - the other factory with this technology is located in Turkey. 

Carbonnel are instrumental in creating clones of popular fragrances or sometimes original fragrances for Middle Eastern Brands. Christian and Francisco Carbonnel were the creators of Al Haramain Amber Oud Gold the clone of Erba Pura and L’aventure the Aventus Clone. However upon my research and on the basis of Armaf Club De Nuit Line or Afnan Supremacy Line I couldn’t find the perfumers for them but I wouldn’t be surprised if a Gas Chromatograph and “Roxanne” working together had to do with the creation of these too but that is just speculation for now. 

We can even notice clones or inspired-by fragrances within the Xerjoff/Casamorati catalogue conclusive of a long existing habit of Gas Chromatograph usage Such as: Naxos::Pure Havane, Pikovaya Dama::No. 5, Richwood::Coromandel, Symphonium::Pink Sugar, Homme::Knize Ten, Lira::L de Lolita Lempicka, Mefisto & Mefisto Gentiluomo::Silver Mountain Water, Uden & Uden Overdose::Edition Blanche, Bouquet Ideale::Kalemat etc. 

Christian Carbonnel and his team can be seen making Alexandria II clones as a “Carbonnel Wuz Here!” Signature in many Middle Eastern brands or brands he’s worked with in general that commission Carbonnel eg. Navitus Oud Imperium, Jazeel Shouq, Arena Somens, Nilafar Monto, Nishane Nefs, Kemi Hayat etc. 

Take from this information as you will. On a personal take however Carbonnel and by association Kemi, Xerjoff and Casomoratti are a massive fraud of a niche house and a loss of the artistry and meaning to the art of perfumery but nonetheless one of the trendsetters when it comes to mass-production of mass-appealing niche and oriental fragrances. Even though it is massive now I can see the Carbonnel company becoming even more influential in the world of perfumery due to its ability to spit out hundreds of fragrances a year when consumers begin to care less for meaning, construction or story when it comes to their fragrances. Carbonnel is basically the Middle Eastern LVMH or L'Oréal…

I must inform however that none of this is illegal... Just incredibly shady as we are suppose to respect this one guy “Chris” who is actually a robot and a factory empire. One plus side however is that the company is mostly transparent with its process for making fragrances. I have just lost respect for these brands who have worked with this "master perfumer" who has pulled a "Creed" Chris Carbonnel who is actually a team of women who are rarely ever credited... and are charging a ridiculous premium for "Niche Orientals and Mukhallats" that are produced and spit out like modern designers."

Pozwoliłem sobie skopiować powyższy fragment z recenzji Erba Pura napisany przez Searching Scent, bo gość kumaty jest i opisuje wiele ciekawych rzeczy.

Miłego dzionka !!!